Thursday, May 6, 2010

First Day Tour




We just returned from our first day's tour of historic central Lima. We drove to the Plaza de Armas/Plaza Mayor and walked around -- a busy, crowded, exciting scene, including lots of Andeans in traditional garb in front of the Presidential Palace. Didn't get into the Cathedral, which was disappointing, but the San Francisco Monastery complex was terrific - wonderful vernacular art demonstrating the fertile cross-pollination of Catholicism with indigenous American beliefs, thousands of colorful Sevillean tiles (and lots made in Lima), and the gloomy and disturbing catacombs: the bones of a reported 70,000 people, many carefully arranged in concentric circles. Then to the Inquisition Museum, fairly cheesy but evocative, and an excellent lunch at the Hotel Bolivar (Birthplace of the Pisco Sour! as they tell you in seven different ways) and back to the hotel. Lima weather exactly as advertised: 70 degrees, humid, always looking like it's about to rain but never does.

LOTS of cops everywhere, well-armed, and everyone we talked to was friendly and welcoming. Plenty of high-pressure tourist pitches for maps, jewelry, food, etc., but entirely to be expected given where we were.

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